This Sealer is too new to have much in the way of good usage instructions. BEWARE! Read the instructions on the bottle. The best way to use this sealer is by pouring a small amount (1/2 to 1 oz) in to a small container before you start. Treat it like you would epoxy, it will start to set up on you in about 45 min.This stuff goes a long way, 1 oz will cover about 1000sq in of balsa Make the first coat as thin as possible, you are just trying to seal the wood surface against the second and third coats of sealer. Wiping it on with a soft rag worksvery well. Just put on as little as possible. Wiping it on is by far the best method of applying that first coat This Sealer is water based; it can be thinned with water.Do not thin it. Brushes can be cleaned upwith water, however you must clean up before it hardens. You really MUST put the brush in water just as soon as you finish with it.
You only have about 30 sec to get the brush into the water or the brush will start to get hard.Never ever try to flex the bristles of a stiff brush as it will just break them off. If you want to use the brush again in a few seconds, dry it off with a paper towel. Don't add excess water to the sealer. It does not harden by evaporation. Once it starts to harden it goes rapidly, reminds me of concrete. If you leave a pile of sealer on the surface, it will set up in a pile. You simply can not brush on thick flowing coats of this sealer, it will run like MILK for you.It is much better to use very thin, sparse coats of sealer. The thin coats seal just as well as the thick flowing coats of the old sealer and much better than anything I have ever tried before.
Do not pile it up or leave any thick ridges or drops of sealer on the surface, always brush them out right away. This sealer contains a material that makes the water very wet and it penetrates the wood much more than we are used to.
Any balsa less than about 3/16 will bow outunless it is well supported. NOTE: wiping on that first coat pretty much solves this problem, even on light 1/32 balsa. Get used to wiping on that first coat.On thin surfaces always apply the sealer to both sides of the wood at the same time.This sealer is 23% solids and 7% zinc serrate. The old sealer was 24% solids and 5% zinc serrate . They seal about the same; this water-based sealer is noticeably better. Weight is about the same. Actually perhaps 20% less for the same finish This water-based sealer is much tougher.
This water-based sealer does not make any wood the least bit brittle. This sealer is not totally fuel proof, Not even close. You must always use a large sanding block when ever possible Don’t sand without a sanding block if you can avoid it. Your first bit of sanding following each and every coat must be done with a sharp sandpaper that will actually cut the surface and remove lumps and bumps. I use fresh W/D 400. If you don't so this and you go to a very fine sandpaper too soon, you absolutely will end up with a great, smooth, slick finish that also includes a few lumps and bumps that all experience builders will laugh at. I don't want people making fun of my sealerThis sealer responds very well to a final sanding with 600 to 1800 grit sandpaper. Slick as greased owl ship.Generally speaking you can sand with in about one hour, but that of course depends on a lot of other factors. Good luck ! I would like to have your comments for inclusion in a better data sheet.